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Diamond Guide
This guide explores how to assess diamond grades according to the industry standards in cut, color, clarity, and carat.
What is a Diamond?
Over a billion years ago, deep beneath the Earth's surface, carbon atoms bonded tightly under high temperatures and extreme pressure, resulting in the world's hardest natural mineral: diamond.
Hidden for millions of years, diamonds only reached the Earth's surface after volcanic activity transported them upward in magma. Then, in the 4th Century BC, the first diamonds were found in India. Today, as they have been for centuries, diamonds are one of the most beautiful and coveted objects on Earth.
The Valam Design Difference
From the day we were founded in 2005, we've set out to revolutionize the diamond industry. So, we pioneered a new standard with Beyond Conflict Free™ Diamonds that surpasses the Kimberley Process to provide our customers with truly ethical, sustainable, and stunning diamonds. We are committed to continually transforming the industry for good: we know where our diamonds come from and share that information with you — so you can feel good about the jewelry you're wearing.
Types of Diamonds
Natural Diamonds
Natural diamonds form deep within the Earth under extreme conditions of heat and pressure. They are comprised of nearly 99.95% carbon, with the other 0.05% reflecting trace elements that aren't part of their essential chemistry — making diamond the only gemstone constructed of a single element. They are the hardest naturally occurring material found on Earth and one of the most sought-after.
Lab Diamonds
Lab diamonds are optically, chemically, and physically the same as natural diamonds. In other words, they look, feel, and are identical. Their difference lies only in their origins — natural diamonds form within the Earth, and lab diamonds are grown by professionals with specialized equipment. Another difference relates to cost; as lab grown diamonds are less rare than natural diamonds, they often come at a much more accessible price.
4 C's of Diamonds
If you're wondering what to look for in a diamond, the best place to begin is by understanding the 4 C's: cut, color, clarity, and carat. Created by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the 1940s, the 4 C's act as a universal scale to describe and determine the quality of diamonds.
Cut
Cut is the proportion and arrangement of facets that determine a diamond's brilliance, sparkle, and fire. The scale ranges from Excellent to Poor.
Fair
Good quality cut which reflects some light while maximizing weight. While not as brilliant as a good cut, still a quality diamond.
Good
Premium quality cut to optimize the size without sacrificing quality or beauty. Reflects most light that enters.
Very Good
Superior quality cut that reflects nearly as much light as the ideal cut while at a substantially lower cost.
Ideal
Exquisite quality cut to create the optimal combination of brilliance and fire. Reflects nearly all light that enters the diamond.
Super Ideal
Cut to the most exacting standards. These diamonds have the most desirable dimensions and are proportioned to return the maximum possible light.
D Color
Absolutely colorless or icy white. The highest color grade—extremely rare and most expensive.
E Color
Colorless. Only miniscule traces of color can be detected by an expert gemologist—a rare, high quality diamond.
F Color
Colorless. Slight color detected by an expert gemologist, but still considered a “colorless” grade—a high-quality diamond.
G Color
Near-colorless. Color noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades, but offers excellent value.
H Color
Near-colorless. Color noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades, but offers excellent value.
I Color
Near-colorless. Slightly detected color—a good value.
J Color
Near-colorless. Slightly detected color—a good value.
K Color
Faint Yellow. Slightly detected color—a good value.
L Color
Faint Yellow. Slightly detected color—a good value.
M Color
Faint Yellow. Slightly detected color—a good value.
N Color
Faint Yellow. Slightly detected color—a good value.
Color
Color references the absence of color within a diamond. The scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z. Diamonds outside this range are considered 'fancy colored'.
Clarity
Clarity references the absence of internal inclusions and surface blemishes on a diamond. The scale ranges from Internally Flawless to Included.
FL
Flawless with no internal or external flaws. Extremely rare and valuable.
IF
Internally Flawless. No internal flaws.
VVS1
Very very slightly included 1. Very difficult to see under 10x magnification.
VVS2
Very very slightly included 2. Very difficult to see under 10x magnification. Slightly more inclusions than VVS1.
VS1
Very slightly included 1. Difficult to see inclusions under 10x magnification. Typically cannot see inclusions with the naked eye.
VS2
Very slightly included 2. Difficult to see inclusions under 10x magnification. Typically cannot see inclusions with the naked eye. Slightly more inclusions than VS1.
SI1
Slightly included 1. Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification, but may not be very visible with an unaided eye.
SI2
Slightly included 2. Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification and may be visible with an unaided eye. More inclusions than SI1.
I1
Included 1. Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance
I2
Included 2. Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance
Actual Diamond Size on Size 6 Hand
Carat
Carat is a measurement unit that describes a diamond's weight, not its size. One carat is roughly the weight of a paperclip.
Diamond Certification
Many diamonds, including all Valam Design diamonds, are certified by independent institutions such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the International Gemological Institute (IGI), HRD Antwerp, and the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab (GCAL). To grade a diamond, trained professionals use specialized equipment to assess cut, color, clarity, and carat. They may also plot a diagram of its clarity characteristics and graphic representation of its proportions. Certifications may also include notes on symmetry, polish, fluorescence, shape, or measurements.
Certifications are essential as they detail not only the quality characteristics of your stone but also its authenticity. During the certification process, most diamonds are laser inscribed with a unique number that correlates to the number on its certification — meaning that, under magnification, you'll always be able to visually confirm that the diamond you have is the same one that was certified. We digitally deliver to customers with their purchase. Providing digital certifications in lieu of paper certifications decreases our paper use, the size of our packaging, and our shipping emissions, therefore reducing our carbon footprint.
Diamond Shape
Shape refers to the external appearance of a diamond's outline. It is distinct from cut, which refers to a diamond's internal facet arrangement. The most popular shape is round, and any other shape (such as emerald, marquise, or oval) is considered a 'fancy shape.'
Shop Diamonds by Shape
Diamond Hardness
Diamond is the hardest naturally occurring mineral found on Earth. It is so hard that it ranks at the highest hardness level (a 10) on the Mohs scale, a rating system developed in 1822. The hardness of a diamond signifies its resistance to scratching — and it's true that only a diamond can scratch a diamond. Therefore, diamonds are ideal for everyday wear, making them perfect as center stones in jewelry as well as engagement rings.
Diamond Fluorescence
Diamond fluorescence refers to the effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond. It is graded on the intensity of the diamond's reaction to long-wave UV, which is an integral part of daylight. Fluorescence may cause diamonds to emit a blue or yellow glow under UV light, but it does not have a noticeable effect on diamond appearance under regular lighting, nor does it affect the structural integrity of the stone.
Diamond Price
Diamond price varies greatly depending on rarity and quality. Diamonds with higher grades in cut, color, or clarity, or diamonds with a larger carat weight, are rarer and therefore more expensive than those with lower grades or carat weights. Lab grown diamonds are less rare than natural diamonds found in the Earth and are therefore less expensive.
Diamond Grading Scale
Diamonds are graded on a scale developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) that analyzes cut, color, clarity, and carat. These 4 C's are universally acknowledged as the accepted standard in describing and determining the quality of any diamond.
How to Buy Diamonds
When deciding on your dream diamond, it's essential to do the following:
1. Study up on the 4 C's. To find the best diamond for you, learn to balance the 4 C's with your budget. If you're looking for a high-carat stone, you may have to sacrifice cut, color, or clarity to keep it affordable. Or vice versa, if you're looking for a colorless stone, you may have to sacrifice carat, cut, or clarity. And remember, no two diamonds are identical, and there's no right answer to how a diamond should look.
2. Pick your favorite shape. While round brilliant diamonds are the most popular, remember that there are many other shapes to choose from. Here at Valam Design, we offer eight shapes in addition to round: oval, cushion, princess, radiant, emerald, marquise, pear, and asscher.
3. Make sure that it's certified. Your diamond must come with a digital or physical certification from an independent institution such as GIA, IGI, HRD, or GCAL to prove its authenticity and quality. All Valam Design diamonds are certified, and any other diamond you're considering purchasing should be, too.
At Valam Design, we're proud to offer our customers an incredible assortment of sustainable and ethical diamonds — in all shapes and sizes — so we suggest using our filters to navigate our diamond searches best. Once you've determined the shape and 4 C's you're hoping for, filter away to narrow it down to the perfect piece.
Our experts are also available 24/7 via chat, phone, text, and email to assist with questions big and small. If you're interested in viewing diamonds in person, schedule an appointment and come see us.
